it's all in the char

I’m currently grocery shopping less frequently, preferring to buy hardier vegetables in bulk, relying on what I have on hand to create flavor and technique. Roasting vegetables has always been my go to, but lately I’ve been preferring to char. Broccoli and green beans are the perfect complement to pasta, stir fries, or on their own. The trick is high heat, a heavy bottom pan, and patience. Allowing the vegetables to sear in an even layer, undisturbed, gives them time to blister without cooking all the way through, so they retain some crunch. You might begin with this recipe for Blistered Broccoli Pasta with Walnuts, Pecorino + Mint, from the NYT, then adapt the technique however you’d like.

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INGREDIENTS

  • Kosher salt and black pepper

  • 12 ounces riccioli, fusilli or other short pasta

  • ½ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling

  • ½ cup walnuts or pecans, chopped

  • ¼ to ½ teaspoon + red-pepper flakes

  • 1 bunch broccoli or cauliflower (about 1 1/2 pounds untrimmed), florets roughly chopped and stalks peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick

  • 1 lemon, zested (about 1 teaspoon) then quartered

  • ½ cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan, plus more for serving

  • 1 cup packed fresh mint leaves or parsley leaves

PREPARATION

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package instructions until al dente.

  2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the walnuts and red-pepper flakes, if using, and cook, stirring, until golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer walnuts and red-pepper flakes to a small bowl. Season walnuts with a little salt and pepper.

  3. Add the broccoli to the skillet and toss to coat in the oil. Shake the skillet so broccoli settles in an even layer. Cook, undisturbed, 2 minutes. Toss and shake to arrange in an even layer again and cook, undisturbed, another 2 to 3 minutes; season with salt and pepper and remove from heat.

  4. Drain pasta and add to the skillet along with the lemon zest, cheese, toasted walnuts and half the mint; toss to combine. Divide among plates or bowls and top with remaining mint, more cheese and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve with lemon wedges, squeezing juice on top, if desired.

TO CHAR GREEN BEANS:

Trim 1 lb green beans into 1” pieces. Heat 1 1/2 tbsp oil in a heavy based skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Add the beans, spreading out to cover base. Leave for 1 minute. Quick stir, spread out, cook for 30 seconds. Stir, then leave for 30 seconds, then repeat once more (so 2 1/2 minutes in total cook time) until beans are charred but tender crisp (not withered and floppy). I usually add red pepper flakes, garlic and ginger during the last minute for extra flavor, then toss with a grinding of sea salt. If you like, here is a recipe for a ground pork (or whatever meat you have on hand) stir fry … I think red peppers would be lovely in this too.